16mm Film

Archive for the ‘16mm To 35mm’ Category

I currently own a Nikon D90, and these are my lenses:
18-200mm VR
11-16mm (tokina)
50mm 1.8
35mm 1.8
85mm 1.8

i’m kind of leaning away from the 18-200 because it’s kind of heavy (for a short 16yearold girl), and i want to bring something lighter.
and i want to have fun at the park without having my camera be a pain to carry around, but i also don’t want to regret my lens choice when i see photo opportunities.

so yeah, i can’t decide.

Anyone out there just NEED to unload a decent 16mm (film camera) package for a tad UNDER $3000. bucks? I refuse to rent, can’t quite afford the ebay find’s going average from $3500. to $25,ooo. and I am in a BIG hurry to get my movie project on the way!! HeeeeeelP me please all you rich, tired of storing, 16mm owners who graduated to 35mm and have a soft spot for the COOLEST desperate media conquerer up and coming!!! I will put you in my credits with a BIG happy face next to it when I get done!

and around how much they cost, and where I can learn to use it to film my own movies? thank you

History of Microfilm:

Technically, this is the reason, “The duplicating technician can change the lamp and speed settings of a duplicating machine to increase or decrease exposure from the master negative onto the print master. The type of microfilm can play an important role in improving the print master densities by choosing high-contrast or low-contrast microfilm stock. Where you take the density readings throughout the reel can have a great effect on the “average”. The average decides the duplicator settings and that can make all the difference in good print masters for scanning. Click here to see an example. It has been said that a technician can find any density reading on any piece of film if they’re willing to look for it. It’s true.”

Intellectual the reason for the start of microfilm scanning was totally different. To allow the scanning technician to know that the microfilm scanner has captured everything present on the microfilm reel. To allow the metadata technician to confirm that missing issues, pages, duplicate issues or pages, and other anomalies are consistent with what is on the microfilm. This is where every thing started.

Basic types of microfilm scanning,

1. 16mm
2. 35mm
3. COM Fiche
4. Aperture Cards
5. Jacket Fiche
6. Blip Film

This were some of the major basic microfilm scanning process, But, there are lot of microfilm scanning process available.

Today, need for microfilm scanning services has become huge all over the world. So, there are lots and lots of companies to offer this service. India has become the center of microfilm scanning process and they are very good in doing microfilm scanning process. E-datapro is one of such company which offers excellent microfilm scanning services. I hope this article will help others to know in deep about microfilm scanning and its history.

http://www.e-datapro.net/

I’m not a newbie photographer (experienced in 35mm, digital, and 16mm & Super 8 cinematography)
I recently got a Holga, and I’m having fun shooting medium format B&W.
I think I’d like to get a ‘real’ camera now, but I don’t want to spend a lot of money.
What could I get that would be decent, for say, under $300-ish? (if that’s even possible?).
thanks!

I am planning to photograph a field of stars with no foreground subject. I have very poor night vision, so I will not be relying on my own ability to focus manually.

My setup will be (and these cannot be changed):
-shoot wide open at f/2.8
-shoot at widest 16mm setting (Canon 16-35mm)
-high ISO to eliminate star trails
-long exposure, but not enough to make star trails

My DOF calculator says a 16mm lens at f/2.8 has a hyperfocal distance of ~10 feet (everything from 5 feet to infinity is in focus). Now, recalling that I have no foreground subject (or if anything, some hills in the far distance), what would you do and why?

1) Focus on infinity
2) Focus a notch under infinity
3) Focus on the hyperfocal setting of 10 feet
4) somewhere between 2 and 3

It sounds like it would be hard to make a focusing error here, but I would like maximize lens sharpness.

thanks in advance